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Both. Use the brush to work the resin in and then use a roller to remove the air bubbles(i'm talking about the metal roller though not squeegee.
Apply a thin, penetrating epoxy to all sides of the wood (Smith's works very well). Allow time to fully cure. Lightly sand the entire piece. Apply a clear coating epoxy to all sides of the wood. This adds depth to the finish (West 207 works well). I usually go 2--3 coats and apply using a finned roller.
Mix up a small batch and using a small paint brush coat the cracks and holes remember your not trying to fill them just sealing the wood so air doesn't come out and cause bubbles in your epoxy. You will have to do this 2-3 times but wait 24 hours between coats so the cure.
Prepare the Wood Thoroughly Select the Right Wood. Clean, Level, & Sand the Wood. Seal & Prime the Wood. Eliminating Air Bubbles. Time Frames for Curing. Removing the Supporting Form. Long-term Care of Epoxy Resin on Wood. Repairing Scratches & Imperfections.
You must use a bristle brush or nap roller to get great results. However, if sanding is necessary, then a chip brush will also work nice. Do not keep your epoxy in extremely cold or dry places. Heat expedites the curing process and cold wether can hinder epoxy adhesion.
Some people swear by a spatula, as it is considered the proper tool for applying epoxy. Remember, epoxy is a casting resin and should be applied with a spatula or similar. Brushes are used to apply paint, something which a 100% solids epoxy is not. Having said that, I still use a brush.
After pouring, use a flat or jagged-edged spreading tool to gently guide the epoxy to the edges. You can either bring the epoxy right up to the edges without going over, or allow it to run over the sides, using a brush or gloved hand to smooth it out.